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food
09.10.07
Hot List |
Borough Food and Drink, 12 E. 22nd [Bway/Park Ave. S.] 212.260.0103 The foods of NYC (NYS, too) are featured at this Zak Pelaccio/Jeffrey Chodorow high-concept/low-affect restaurant, which incorporates comestibles from some of the city's great purveyors such as Russ and Daughters, Di Palo, Salumeria Biellese. Service, though, seems to have been provided by Duane Reade.
Degustation, 239 E. 5th [2nd/3rd] 212.979.1012 Wesley Genovart may be a 20-something chef, but he cooks like an old soul. The small plates he composes at Jack Lamb's open kitchen/counter seating eatery are small only if you're a size queen: they're huge on flavor. Call it Jewel Geno.
Fette Sau, 354 Metropolitan [Roebling/Havemeyer] Bklyn 718.963.3404 Du fette sau! is a beloved German epithet (beloved by us, anyway). We're all in favor of epithets for restaurant names and request more of them. Wheezy Old Gasbag? We're there. Anyway, it's hard not to be seduced by the smells emanating from this Bklyn BBQ joint, and once inside proves itself a most welcome meatery.
Market Table, 28 Bedford [Carmine/Downing] 212.255.2100. It's not open yet, but we're looking forward to the imminent arrival of this collaboration between the Little Owl team (Joey Campanaro and Gabriel Stulman) and chef Mike Price, who earned fans at the Mermaid Inn.
Mercat, 45 Bond [Laf/Bowery] 212.529.8600 Jaime Reixach's Barcelona-on-Bond, a festive (loud), fun, tasty tapas restaurant—sardines, salt cod, patatas bravas, Spanish cheese—you can't go wrong.
Suba, 109 Ludlow [Delancey/Riv] 212.982.5714 Following up their success at Boqueria, Yann de Rochefort tapped Seamus Mullen to transub(a)staniate this place into a frontrunner—a challenge for a windowless subterranean restaurant. And yet the modern Spanish cooking rises to the occasion, making Suba a must-visit this fall.
Tailor, 525 Broome [Sullivan/Thompson] 212.334.5182 Sam Mason, former WD-50 pastry chef, has just opened his joint featuring small plates on which Mr. Mason's renegade imagination can wreak wonderfully sweet and savory havoc. Eben Freeman's cocktails lubricate.
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Surge M 21 P 8 C $450 billion Some say the "surge is working" but most say this "trip to Baghdad" is a "bad idea gone wrong"; Petraeus will report "progress" and urge "more time and more patience" as the GOP "echo" and Dems "fold."
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 chelsea

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